NAYPYITAW (Reuters) - Myanmar's new
capital, Naypyitaw, translates as "Abode of Kings", fitting for U.S.
Secretary of State Hillary Clinton to begin historic talks that could restore
some lustre to one of the world's most reclusive states.
But just hours before her arrival on Wednesday
to become the first U.S. secretary of state to visit Myanmar in more than 50
years, there were no obvious signs of preparations -- no crowds, no
festivities, no flags -- aside from policemen outside the hotel compound where
she will stay.
In striking contrast, a large billboard had
been strung up at a nearby hotel, welcoming the prime minister of Belarus, who
is also due to visit in coming days.
Some workers were sweeping the wide but mostly
deserted boulevards of the sprawling city built from scratch just five years
ago, where Myanmar's leaders and powerful retired generals have isolated
themselves, some 320 km (200 miles) from the largest city and former capital,
Yangon.
Naypyitaw is a maze of ministry buildings,
government mansions, civil servants' quarters and presidential palaces complete
with grand Roman-style pillars -- all rising from dusty, arid scrubland. At its
heart are parliament's 31 buildings, with pagoda-style roofs.
Bestowed with manicured lawns and forbidding stone
walls, it bears no resemblance to the rest of Myanmar, one of Asia's poorest
countries, or even to nearby villages, where many people live in thatched
wooden huts.
Attractions include half a dozen resorts and
golf courses, drinkable tap water, a Western-style shopping mall, a large zoo,
a grand "water fountain garden", lavish mansions and 24-hour
electricity in a nation beset by chronic power outages.
A labourer at a construction site next to
parliament said he had no idea who was visiting.
"All I know is someone important is
coming but I don't know who," said the worker, Ye Pun Naing. Told that it
was Clinton, he shrugged his shoulders and said that meant nothing to him.
That's not too surprising.
Myanmar has only just begun to emerge from an
extraordinary half-century of isolation. The past few months have seen the most
dramatic changes in the former British colony since the military took power in
a 1962 coup when it was known as Burma.
A string of reforms, breathtaking by Myanmar's
standards, have been introduced by former generals who swapped fatigues for
civilian clothes in March when a new parliament opened following last year's
elections, the first in two decades.
While in South Korea earlier on Wednesday,
Clinton expressed cautious optimism that Myanmar's tentative democratic reforms
could develop into a movement for change to the benefit of the people.
PUZZLINGLY WIDE ROADS
Unarmed policemen were seen in pairs or in
groups along some roads, along with the occasional trucks carrying riot police
armed with shields, baton and guns.
"A number of foreign dignitaries are due
to arrive here in a day or two," said Ma Nyein, 26, as she tended plants
by the side of a road. She said she had never heard of Clinton, although she
knew who U.S. President Barack Obama was.
Much of Naypyitaw was built by workers like Ma
Nyein toiling in searing heat with basic equipment. When Reuters journalists
visited early last year, women were hauling stacks of bricks balanced upon
their head and men cleared land with wooden-handled scythes. Ox carts
transported wood.
Diplomatic sources say the construction of
Naypyitaw would have cost billions of dollars, drawing criticism from aid
groups over the priorities of a country where a third of the population lives
in poverty and where infrastructure is in tatters due to trade-crippling
sanctions and mismanagement.
The city's rise reflects the riches reaped by
its rulers as Southeast Asia and China tap its natural resources, from timber
and natural gas to precious gems, despite the Western sanctions imposed in
response to rights abuses.
It may have amenities but there's no lively
city centre thronged with people, even five years after the government moved
nearly all its workers there. Officials put its population at about 1 million,
including surrounding townships.
Its roads are puzzlingly wide, including one
20-lane boulevard, but they are largely empty. Civilian cars are rare. The city
centre, a roundabout where five roads meet, is populated mostly by palm trees
and potted flowers.
One person the former ruling junta were happy
to leave in Yangon was opposition leader Aung San Suu Kyi, a Nobel laureate
freed from years of detention last year.
But Suu Kyi has since visited several times
and could even enter parliament when her political party contests by-elections
expected early next year.
(Additional reporting by Aung Hla Tun; Writing
by Jason Szep; Editing by Robert Birsel)
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