Today
Cheo A Linh, 17, a short porter from an ethnic H’Mong community in the rugged
mountains of Sa Pa, has only one customer.
However, the sack on his back weighs 15
kilograms, including food and water for the pair’s trip to the top of the
3,143-meter tall Fansipan, Indochina’s highest mountain, located in this remote
part of the northwestern province of Lao Cai. A Linh is also carrying his
luggage, as well as that of Binh, his customer.
A Linh is taking the shortest and easiest path
to the roof of Indochina, which begins at Tram Ton Village some 1,900 meters
into the clouds. It’s already raining hard and strong winds are making the hike
all the more difficult.
The rocks along the mountain look like
thousands of roofs creeping in zigzag fashion from the valleys below to the
horizon. The rivers below are filled with spring water as clear as crystal and
everything has the earthy, fresh scent of fallen leaves.
Suddenly, a shout from nowhere startles Binh,
who is busy at taking picture. The sound came from A Linh, who reaches behind
his back as fast as possible to snatch his falling backpack. A strap just
broke.
A Linh struggles with his footing on the slope
and then tumbles to the ground. Years of experience carrying up to 40-kilogram
bags to the Fansipan summit kick in and he grabs a handful of root to stop
himself from sliding off the edge of the path.
A Linh says that unlike other porters, he
pursues this hard, dangerous job not for money, but for his love for the forest
and the clear springs here. He loves not only hiking, but also cooking and
camping in the woods, and is also adept at first aid. He quickly fixes his
backpack, and moves on.
The higher the two travelers climb, the fewer
big trees there are. The porter, who earns around VND100,000-150,000 (US$4-7)
per day, doesn't rest at the rest stops he gives Binh: instead he crawls around
the bushes looking for wild mushrooms to enrich the dinner menu, which already
includes rice, beef, bamboo shoots and vegetable.
Once it’s time for dinner, A Linh washes the
dishes and vegetables in a fresh nearby spring.
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Though Binh is lying inside the tent with a
thick blanket covering him from head to toe, A Linh is much more used to the
cold weather.
While Binh tosses and turns all night, A Linh
lies outside on a large rock, and covers his body with a piece of raincoat so
that the dew doesn’t get him.
A Linh confesses the next day that this is
probably his last journey to the top of Fansipan.
“This job never provides enough to feed my
family, and it is dangerous,” he says. “God, did I lose my life here?”
The income from doing such risky job is
little, but there are many teenage porters wandering around Sa Pa looking for
customers who want to conquer the top of Fansipan.
Hang A Lu, a 16-year-old H’Mong porter, who
together with his older brothers has worked as a porter for years, described
his work simply: “Exhausting.”
A Lu, whose shoulders are callous and black
due to the strings of jute tightened against his skin from carrying heavy bags,
remembers one trip he had to make alone while escorting a group of tourists
from Hanoi.
It was dark when the group reached the height
of 2,800 meters; however, a member of the group had stomachache after eating
wild bamboo shoots. A Lu crossed the forest alone with a flashlight to buy
medicine at the foot of the mountain.
“I was so scared during that trip at night
alone due to the steep and slippery slope, I fell down several times,” said A
Lu, who like other local porters, has to travel alone in advance of his
customers to prepare food and resting places for them. If a group’s rice ever
runs out on a trip, porters like A Lu must give up their rice portion to the
customers and eat only instant noodles.
There’s also another porter named A Lu, but
much older - he looks older than his age of 48 after more than 10 years working
here with his two elder sons, A Gianh and A Cho, as tour guides and porters. Lu
said a porter’s income is only VND2 million ($95) per month as they can only
take a few trips to Fansipan every month.
“Porters are easily worn out if their
customers are slow,” said Lu. “When we have to wait for them to take a rest,
the waiting soon makes us feel tired in the legs and shoulders, therefore, most
porters who are assigned to walk behind a large group are the strongest and
most experienced ones.”
“The porters are required to be willing to
carry not only the luggage, but also their customers on their backs - up and
down the mountain - if the customers get too exhausted,” added Lu.
Lu says the job can be thankless when
travelers disrespect the porters.
“But we are used to it and take it as part of
our job.”
However, other customers offer porters like Lu
their own food, and break the unwritten rule of not inviting porters to eat
with the tour groups.
“We
really appreciate it when our customers understand our job.”
Thanh Nien News. Original Vietnamese story by
Tien Phong
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