May 4, 2012

Vietnam - 9 days in North Korea: A true account


Vietnam - During nine days in the Democratic People's Republic of Korea (DPRK) also known as North Korea (8 to 17 April), I encountered surprises upon surprises in this mysterious and strange nation.

It was a trip led by the Vietnamese Union of Friendship Organizations, with eight members to visit this nation for the historic 100th birthday celebrations of the late state's founder Kim Il-sung.


We arrived at Beijing airport three hours ahead of the flight, but the booth of DPRK's state-owned flag carrier Air Koryo was empty.

However, just 30 minutes later, a large group started to gather. Most were international visitors.

There are few flights to DPRK. On April 11 for example, there were four flights from Beijing to Pyongyang, the capital of DPRK.

Currently you can only fly to Pyongyang from China or Russia.

Aboard the flight TU-154, I suddenly found my seat (as written on the ticket) occupied by a strange passenger.

After I complained to a beautiful Korean stewardess, she calmly and politely took me to find a new and unoccupied seat.

The plane was quite small and old. There were ashtrays left on the plane; most knobs were old but I enjoy the food and drinks very much.

Drinks include alcoholic beverage, soft drinks, and freshwater. All were made in DPRK.

After two hours of flight, the TU-154 softly landed in Pyongyang airport.

A strict requirement from DPRK security is that you must leave all your mobile phones at the airport.

Even if you could sneak one in, you would not be able to use it because there is no international roaming service there.

Yet, there is an Egyptian telecom company supplying mobile service for around a million subscribers.

However, only Korean people inside DPRK can call each other. Foreigners must use a different network and can only call foreigners.

Old plane, colorless buildings, abundant flowers

It started to get dark as we were being transported from the airport to the hotel.

However, on the streets, there were many people present, tending to large flower pots to prepare for the upcoming historic event - April 15, the centenary birthday of the eternal president.

We stayed at 4-star Yanggakdo International Hotel located in a small island in the capital.

It had 47 floors and on the top floor there was a revolving restaurant.

There were also massage, karaoke, disco services, and even a small casino in the basement.

Pyongyang has some very wide streets with thin traffic.

In the evening, it is quite dark as there are no street lights.

Both sides of the street boast low, colorless apartment blocks under eight floors, so that there will be no need for elevators. They mostly bear a tint of white or grey.

Pyongyang people love flowers. Nearly all balconies on the apartment blocks have flower pots.

Near my hotel, there was also a large area reserved for flowers.

My first dinner was at a restaurant inside the hotel. There was kimchi, fried fish, minced meat, white rice (Korean rice with long grains), and taedong-gang beer (brewed by a state-owned company in Pyongyang).

The beer is a pride of DPRK since it has been exported to the US.

Listed in DPRK won, payment in USD

I came to a telephone booth at the hotel to call home. Fee for a 4 minute call to Vietnam, the charge was US$5 (S$6.20).

There was also an email service here, but you had to send it from the official email of the hotel.

Stores inside the hotel sold DPRK specialties, like bear gall, ginseng, Korean rice, DPRK skirts together with tobacco imported from Vietnam, Heineken beer and cakes.

All prices were listed in the DPRK won, although payments had to be made in USD, euro or in Chinese yuan.

During my nine days in this strange country, I did not see the DPRK won. You also cannot use your Visa or MasterCard here.

An interesting thing I learnt is that even Vietnamese diplomats at the Vietnamese embassy in Pyongyang have to fly to Beijing to receive their regular salary.

In DPRK, besides 11 Vietnamese embassy officials and their 17 relatives, there are no other Vietnamese citizens.

However, the Vietnamese embassy there has a full-time official in charge of consular affairs.

At the hotel, besides DPRK and Chinese channels, there are two others: NHK English and BBC News. But locals are not allowed to watch the latter two.

Nameless buildings, no address

I noticed that many very spacious streets in Pyongyang have no names, while apartment buildings bear no address numbers.

Even a building I was sure was an official government building had no name. When I asked, I got the reply that was "due to security reasons".

There were many trams on the street, just like Hanoi in the old days. Still, there are luxury cars like Lexus, Mercedes, BMW side by side with tractors, buses and trucks that are stuffed to the full with passengers.

Pyongyang has taxis whose prices are quite cheap, according to a Vietnamese diplomat stationed there.

Taxis bear the brand Volkswagen Passat. Bicycles only travel back and forth on the pavements.

Then, there’s a crowded metro station in Pyongyang. According to a Korean translator by the name of Kim who was once educated in Hanoi, this was built in the 1960s. There are 17 stations.

The total length of this public system is around 24 km under a depth of 100 to 200m.

This is the deepest metro station in the world, Kim (the translator) explained. It can also be used as a shelter in case of war.

During my trip, I met with representatives from three state-owned DPRK companies in gold mining, restaurant and jewelry industries.

We discussed opening a DPRK restaurant in Ho Chi Minh City and launching guided tours from Vietnam to Pyongyang in the near future.

Leaving DPRK, I believe this country's economy and tourism will further develop in the future. The 105-floor Koryo hotel, built since 1978, is about to be finished and waiting to welcome visitors.

Average salary: $25 per month

In Pyongyang, the average salary for a worker is US$20 (S$24.85) per month.

But the state provides houses, necessities, and clothes. In addition, pupils get free education and the people enjoy free health care.

Music is a compulsory subject starting from preschool.

It is due to this that DPRK kids are very good at singing and dancing.

In February this year, 14 kids from Kim Sang Preschool in DPRK visited Vietnam and were praised by Vietnamese teachers as being much more disciplined than their Vietnamese peers.

DPRK now faces a food shortage. The Vietnamese embassy in DPRK informed us that DPRK can only produce 4.6 million tons of food for its 25 million population per year (Vietnam has 50 million tons for nearly 90 million citizens).

Thus, DPRK has to import or receive aid equaling 10 to 15 million tons per year.

Sources say that many Vietnamese companies want to sell rice there but encounter difficulties regarding payment methods.

Tuoi Tre contributor
Tuoi Tre News



Business & Investment Opportunities 
YourVietnamExpert is a division of Saigon Business Corporation Pte Ltd, Incorporated in Singapore since 1994. As Your Business Companion, we propose a range of services in Strategy, Investment and Management, focusing Healthcare and Life Science with expertise in ASEAN. We also propose Higher Education, as a bridge between educational structures and industries, by supporting international programmes. Many thanks for visiting www.yourvietnamexpert.com and/or contacting us at contact@yourvietnamexpert.com



Dear Reader,

May I invite you to visit our new blog: IIMS-Asean http://iims-asean.blogspot.com/

News and activities of the International Institute of Medicine and Science Asean Chapter of IIMS, Inc. California, USA - Health care, Life Science, Education, Research, Philanthropy. Asean is the economic organisation of ten countries located in South East Asia: Brunei Darussalam, Cambodia, Indonesia, Lao PDR, Malaysia, Myanmar, Philippines, Singapore, Thailand, and Vietnam. IIMS is a non-profit organization.

No comments:

Post a Comment