The Hanoitimes - Ask any
foreigner what their least favourite aspect of Vietnam is and the list will
undoubtedly include Xe Om (motorbike taxi) drivers.
They are annoying at best.
Pushy, smelly, rude and downright dangerous at worst.
But they are unavoidable.
Thinking back to before I arrived in Hanoi, after hearing of the fabled Xe Om
from weary travellers, I worried how and where I would find one. How will he
know where to take me? How much will it be? Bargain!? How the hell do I do
that? However, after only a few weeks in Vietnam hearing ‘Xe Om, moto!’, or
even the more polite ‘Hallo sir, moto?’ instantly received a look of disdain
from me. I said no, I avoided them, I
ignored them. But my crippling inability to balance, and thus my complete
inability to ride a motorbike, has left me completely reliant on these
two-wheeled street dwellers.
My reliance has meant I have
built up quite a roster of acquainted and trusted Xe Oms – my Xe Om’s. And of
course, they are not all that bad.
I met Giang the Xe Om about two
weeks into my stay. I was walking along my street to the corner where I knew
they would be plentiful, when he popped out of nowhere – ‘Moto?’, ‘Vung’, I
replied. I unfurled a piece of paper on which a Vietnamese friend had written
what I thought said ‘Vietnam Military Museum’ in Vietnamese. He gave the nod.
When we arrived I was surprised to find that I wasn’t presented with the tank
and airplane which I was told graced the entrance car park, and the Lenin monument
was certainly not over the road. I remonstrated (in classic English-abroad
English), but he was adamant. Finally he pointed to the sign which matched
perfectly with what was written on my piece of paper, I realised mine and my
friend’s mistake and quite happily went to the Vietnam Museum of Revolution for
the morning instead. He had calmly and politely put up with my rudeness and we
laughed it off. That was good enough for me, and ever since he has been my No.1
guy.
However, that was long ago. The
prices we agreed for our regular trips started to seem very expensive and I had
lapsed into cynically accepting that every transaction I made included an added
‘Tay’-tax (the curious, if somewhat warranted, hardship of being charged more
for being Western). I tried, admittedly, in ropey Vietnamese, to lower our
agreed prices. He seemed annoyed and bluntly refused, and I felt cheated that
my loyalty to him had not earned me a small discount. For a few days I
adulterously travelled with other Xe Om drivers but none matched the
reliability Giang had previously treated me with. I went back, and after our
usual round trip to and from work he handed me a two page letter. He quickly
sped off, as if embarrassed, before I could say anything. I got it translated and
I was equally embarrassed by what he had said.
He explained that he was not
charging me high prices because I am a Westerner. Instead, he said, the price
may seem high because for the past few months he had waited outside my place of
work for me to finish, therefore losing out on plenty of other fares. He ended
his letter by saying he considered me a friend and that he felt deeply saddened
at my misguided attempts to call his bluff on the added ‘Tay’-tax.
I had always called him five
minutes before I leave work, allowing him ample time, along with my slow walk
down six flights of stairs, to arrive. Little did I know that he was waiting
there all along, happily and loyally waiting to honour our agreement.
I had taken for granted this
quite wonderful service.
Ask yourself - is there any
other place in the world that boasts such a convenient, cheap and
ever-available (if haphazard) transport system?
In particular, I had taken for
granted my Xe Om’s service. Punctual, friendly and ever-reliable, Giang has
made my life in the city so easy. I can call him and he will be there, no
questions asked. He will drive me (safely) to my destination, pointing out some
of the more interesting sites as we go. He has even invited me into his home
almost every week, when his hospitality shows no bounds. After hearing about
this article he has even asked me to spend National Day (September 2) with him
and his family.
So next time you hear ‘Moto!’
take him up on the offer. Haggle - but not too hard - sit back, enjoy the ride
and appreciate what this disorganised band of brothers do for this crazy city.
Xe Oms have a heart too.
Paul Wilson
Business & Investment Opportunities
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