Inabel
and binakol, the weaving traditions of the Ilocos, served as take-off points of
discussion in a forum tackling the plight of weavers and craftsmen in Southeast
Asia and China.
The
three-day forum, spearheaded by the National Commission for Culture and the
Arts (NCCA), tackled issues about the economic and cultural implications of
weaving in the region.
Delegates
from Indonesia, Malaysia, Philippines, Thailand, Brunei Darussalam, Vietnam,
Laos, Myanmar, Cambodia and China were present to showcase their respective
weaving traditions.
The
Philippine delegation consisted of weavers from Paoay, Sarrat, Pinili, Ifugao,
Aklan and Basilan.
Jesus
Peralta, anthropologist, former director of the National Museum and Don Carlos
Palanca Literary Awards Hall of Famer, talked about the protection of
intellectual property in the case of “intangible” cultural heritage.
In this
case, intellectual property refers to the entitlement of an individual and/or a
community to its cultural heritage. Intangible cultural heritage is defined by
Peralta as “being continuously recreated by a community or an individual.”
“This
definition posits the question of the ownership of intellectual rights,” said
Peralta.
However,
the major issue lies in traditional culture being in the public domain. “Can it
be owned?
Technically,
any entity claim the culture of any segment of it be owned by any entity,”
Peralta said in his presentation.
To
maintain and develop intangible cultural heritage through individuals, Peralta
added, a person’s legal status must be clearly defined through legislative
action, a relevant law, right of attribution, and an organization.
Lastly,
Peralta reiterated the difference between intangible cultural heritage and
intellectual property rights.
“Intangible
cultural heritage differs from intellectual because it developed throughout
generations and continues to be used and evolves within the society it
originated from,” Peralta said.
Green materials
Wanwiwat
Ketsawa, director of trade promotion and business development department of
Support Arts and Crafts International Center of the Ministry of Commerce of
Thailand, said Thailand held training programs for weavers.
“Aside
from the traditional method of weaving, the weavers are taught creating natural
dyes, quality control, mixing and matching the colors,” he said. “The weavers
are also trained in weaving fabric through green materials and recycling
materials.”
Ketsawa
also took note of the problems of traditional Thai weaving amid global warming
and an aging society.
Charito
Cabulisan-Cariaga, one of the Philippine representatives and head of a weaving
community in Paoay, Ilocos Norte, talked about the formation of Nagbacalan
Loomweavers Multi-Purpose Cooperative.
The
cooperative faced the challenge of the inabel weaving tradition facing
extinction due to modernization and economic constraints. The town’s
loom-weaving cooperative started with 13 female weavers and has now grown with
30 active members with a total asset of around P3 million, Cariaga said.
The Nagbacalan
cooperative’s most notable achievement is having its loom-weaving products
showcased in an exhibit by the Center for International Trade Expositions and
Missions by a British consultant.
“The
cooperative was very successful in reviving the inabel weaving tradition
because it was one of the community’s primary livelihoods,” Cariaga said.
Noridah
Johan, the delegate from Malaysian Handicraft Development Corp., discussed the
history of traditional Malaysian weaving and the government’s attempts to make
it more profitable.
Essential part
The
songket, similar to the Philippines’ inabel and binakol weaving, was given
focus as an essential part of Malaysian weaving tradition.
Johan
discussed the goal of the Malaysian weaving industry to innovate the handwoven
songket by incorporating modern motifs. The ancient designs, she explained,
drew from the daily life of Malaysians, sometimes based on native plants and
animals.
She
said the Malaysian government had agreed to set up the National Craft Institute
to support the local weaving industry.
Chinese
delegate Zhou Jiu of Zhejiang University of Science and Technology discussed
the history of weaving in China, with focus on woven-silk fabric.
The
woven-silk tradition is characterized by the intricate designs based on Chinese
history. The three most notable Chinese brocades are shu, song and yun, said
Zhou.
During
the forum, the delegates assessed rules and regulations of each member country
on weaving, including import and export regulations.
The forum
arrived at the decision to establish a national-level weavers’ associations in
each country; strengthen regional trade networks; and promote intellectual
property rights.
The
forum also resolved to raise public awareness on traditional weaving through awards
and recognition of master weavers.
The
delegates also visited the local weaving communities of Sarrat and Paoay in
Ilocos Norte.
The
three-day forum in Plaza del Norte in Ilocos Norte also featured an exhibit of
select pieces of handwoven and loom-woven fabrics from various countries.
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